Understanding our process is easy and important. Most all the questions we get are due misinformation or misunderstanding about the chemicals used, the pH scale, and flow of our process.
  • Step 1 Heated Caustic Solution
  • Step 2 Powerwashing with Fresh Water
  • Step 3 Acid Solution
  • Step 4 Powerwashing with Fresh Water
  • Step 5 Rust Inhibitor Treatment
  • Step 6 Air Dry
  • Please read below for detailed information
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First: What We Do Not Clean or Remove

  • We do not clean aluminum parts
  • We do not clean pot metal parts
  • We do not do anything with chrome. Somehow this one is hard to explain. We do not remove, clean, strip, remove, or treat anything chrome.
  • We do not remove powder coating or Imron
  • We have a tough time with base / clear paints newer than mid 80's. We can strip many newer paints but might require some extra prep
  • We cannot guarantee all bondo & fillers will be removed.
  • We cannot guarantee all undercoating's will be completely removed, most of the time most will.
  • Cast parts & spring metal items: we must be careful with the rust/acid treatment for these types of parts, paint removal is not an issue
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Step 1

  • Parts are carefully suspended in our heated caustic tank
  • For parts to be fully clean we must do our best to be sure there are no pockets of trapped air anywhere inside the bodies and parts
  • Generally parts sit in this tank for 2 days
  • The heat, chemicals, correct mixing ratio of liquids, and time all play a factor during paint and grease removal phase
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Step 2

  • Powerwashing with high pressure fresh water
  • After parts have been fully treated in the hot tank they are removed and taken to the wash basin
  • Each part is fully washing with very high pressure fresh water.
  • All seams are very carefully followed to ensure they are full cleaned.
  • Following the high pressure water cleaning parts are also rinsed with fresh water also
  • Once they are clean as we can get them they are ready for the step 3
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Step 3

  • Parts are carefully suspended in the acid tank
  • Just as in the first tank we must closly watch each body, cab, and piece so no pockets of air allow untreated areas.
  • The acid teatment is the key to our process. Acid neutrializes the base (caustic) chemical that removes paint
  • The only question asked is how we neutralize the acid. People the acid is not what you need to worry about. It's the paint removal chemicals
  • We use the same acid that's been used for over 60 years to "treat rusted metal for paint" Says that right on the label!!
  • Everyone knows you neutrialize batter acid with what? Baking soda, a base chemical. We just do the opposite.
  • We neutralize the powerful base chemical with a paint friendly acid.
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Step 4

  • Parts are again moved to the wash basin and cleaned with high pressure water.
  • All areas are very closely cleaned with varies washing tips and extreamly high pressure fresh water.
  • Once each part is fully cleaned with the high pressure they are also fully rinsed with more fresh water.
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Step 5

  • Rust inhibitor application is included at no extra charge. Unlike others we don't charge more for our rust inhibitor.
  • Another very important step in our process is the application of our proprietry rust inhibitor product
  • Our rust inhibitor guards agains flash rust & rusting giving you plenty of time for transportation, storage, and doing metal work.
  • The rust inhibitor is an very inert product that easily wipes away during normal cleaning prior to painting
  • Small parts are submersed in this product and large parts are sprayed.
  • Our rust inhibitor mixture in thin like water and only needs to touch the surface of the metal to protect it
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Step 6

  • Air dry
  • After everything is all done parts only need to simple air dry.
  • We have found air drying with moving fresh air is the best way to finish our metal cleaning process.
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